Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI)

Central Leather Research Institute a constitutent labaratory of the CSIR India was set up at the inititative of Jawaharlal Nehru, the First Prime Minister of India in 1953. Since that time, the Indian leather industry has recorded a phenomenal progress with 70% of leather made in the country being exported. There has been more than 60-fold increase in export earnings in the last 37 years. In the Nation's march on the leather front, CLRI has played a significant role by serving as a scientific apex body and training centre. Many milestones have been crossed by the Indian leather industry and CLRI has remained an enabling force in this eventful journey. This is the largest leather research laboratory in the world. The strength of its R&D inputs stems from more than 18 research groups comprising about 640 personnel. CLRI has achieved significant progress in the leather sector in both applied and basic research fields. It is no exaggeration to state that nearly 55% fat liquor production in the country is based on CLRI process technologies. Similar achievements can be quoted in other fields explored by CLRI.

The objectives of CLRI are:

  • Seek excellence in research in relevant areas of biological, chemical and engineering sciences.

  • Serve as national apex body in leather processing and product technology.

  • Provide education and training in leather and allied sciences and also serve as an International training centre.

  • Help in technology planning and forecasting through market and economic research.

  • Serve as a consultant to render technical assistance to the leather industry.

  • Serve as a technology getekeeper in leather sector and collect and disseminate information on leather.

  • To develop and deliver technologies to the Industry through efective extension network.

    CLRI also has a mandate which attempts

  • To seek excellence in research in biological, chemical and engineering sciences

  • To serve as the national apex research institution in the areas of leather and related products

  • To provide education and training in leather and allied sciences on national and international levels

  • To help in technology planning and forecasting

  • To render technical assistance to leather industry

  • To serve as a technology gatekeeper and information base in leather sector

  • To develop and deliver technologies to the industry through effective extension network

  • To assist other developing countries in technology upgradation and training

    CLRI Regional Centres for Development and Extension

    Regional Centres spread all over the country serve as a window as outlets for technologies developed at CLRI, Madras. They also carry out important certification and job work activities. These Centres also serve as trouble shooting Centres for the leather industries located in their region.

    CLRI presently is headed by Dr T Ramasami

    CLRI provides basic facilities as well as expertise in undertaking techno-economic feasibility studies, training and education, testing and quality controls, technology applications in respective fields.

    The complex chemical and physical processes involved in tanning continue to intrigue scientist seeking excellence in leather research. The molecular architecture of collagen, Ramachandran's triple helical structure of the protein, the fundamental and molecular level processes involved in tanning, the composition, constitution and structure of numerous tanning materials, the play of microbes as friend and foe and the ability of leather to form composites with synthetics through grafting have formed the basis of research contributions made by CLRI scientists.

    Excellence in applied sciences with relevance to leather industry is a continuing theme. Chemical engineering inputs to design, optimize and control processes for leather making as well as large scale manufacture of specialty chemicals and auxiliaries for leather industry are receiving intensive attention at CLRI.

    Significant achievements of CLRI in the applied areas include a multi-purpose high exhaust chromium aluminum synthetic tanning agent, Alutan, an extraordinary soft binder with high cold cracker resistance, Acryl soft binder and Novotone process for leather upgradation.

    CLRI pioneered the grafting of acrylics onto collagen and the technique now found applications ranging from density to tanning.

    While leather holds its own as a material for footwear by virtue of its comfort, a bad sizing and design can mar all that leather can offer. CLRI has evolved new sizing systems for children and designed lasts based on scientific load distribution and kinematic studies. The special footwear needs of the physically handicapped are also studied in collaboration with medical specialists.

    Design and development of tools and techniques and quality assurance in leather products industry are two major themes of CLRI's research on leather products.

    Major R&D Programmes

    The major R&D programmes of CLRI relate to modernization of tanneries, development of environment-firendly chemicals and technologies including enzymatic options, computer aided designs for footwear and garments, split leathers and quality upgradation of lower ends, molecular biology of collagen and metal-collagen interactions, waste water management, region-specific appropriate technologies, tannery and slaughter house byproducts including carcass utilization, and hazard and risk analysis

    R&D Applications for Modernisation of Leather Industry are very much required for the following areas :

  • Microprocessor based control systems for tannery wet operations

  • Process technology for split leathers especially buffalo and other hides

  • Less chrome or chromeless technologies; chrome recycling and reuse methods

  • Inorganic tanning agents

  • CAD/CAM applications

  • Utility leather goods and garments

  • Appropriate technology for fallen animal carcass utilisation

  • Leather processing for rural sector

  • Techno-economic surveys/studies

  • Human resource development

  • Enzymatic unhairing

    Leather technology is useful in the following areas of production:

  • Biocides
  • Synthetic fatliquors
  • Organic tanning agents
  • Development of polyurethanes and acrylic polymers
  • Stiffener insole and unit sole materials
  • Collagens and modified collagens for medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications
  • Process development of chemical auxiliaries, polymers and bioproducts
  • Chemical Hazard and risk analysis
  • Environmental Impact Assessment studies
  • Studies on collagen, bioinorganic studies
  • Diffusion and kinetics in leather processing
  • In vivo NMR material characterisation Physico-chemical characterisation of leather-collagen surfaces
  • Objective assessment and non-destructive testing of leather

    Significant Achievements

  • Basic research contributions relating to combination tanning mechanisms, mechanism of shrinkage phenomena, aluminium and zirconium tanning materials, structural aspects of collagen, nutritional disorders and collagen, structural stability of chrome-collagen compounds, Indian vegetable tanin resources, novel NMR techniques and chemistry of chromium and its complexes

  • Applied research relating to new and innovative techniques for leather processing, upgradation of low grade raw materials and leathers, technologies for manufacture of chemical auxillaries, animal and tannery byproduct utilization, biotechnologies for leather processing, chrome recovery and reuse, modernization of tannery wet operations, high performance and environment-friendly synthetic tanning agents, nationwide surveys on (a) raw hides and skins (b) capacity utilization in tanneries and (c) women's employment in footwear sector, and surgical sutures and collagen sheet for burn management.

    Major Technologies Transferd to Industry

    The achievements of various research activities leading to technology development has been transferred to the industry and the industries derive the benefits in the manufacture of leather goods. The following are some of the processes being adopted by particular industries as indicated inside the brackets.

  • High performance tanning compounds Alutan and Alcrotan (Balmer Lawrie and Co., Madras)
  • Comprehensive microprocessor based technology package for modernization of tannery operations (M.K.Khizar
        Hussain and Sons, Ranipet)
  • Technologies for synthetic fatliquors (Balmer Lawrie and Co. Madras)
  • Process knowhow package for phosphorylated fatliquors (Balmer Lawrie and Co., Madras) Technology on
        microprocessor-controlled blended-vegetable tanin extracts
  • Knowhow pckage for development of rice barn oil wax products for leather industry (Yanam Oils Ltd. Kakinada)
  • Process knowhow package on trimethoxybenzoic acid (Silver Hills Private Ltd. Attur)
  • Process knowhow package on Thiram and Ziram (SPIC, Madras)
  • Upflow anerobic sludge blanket (UASB) reactor for tannery effluent treatment at Kanpur (Indo-Dutch Programme)
  • Development of high quality shark leather (Bay of Bengal Fisheries Development Programme)
  • Technology on keratin hydrolysate, a retanning and filling agent (Protochem Industries, Pondicherry)
  • Risk assessment studies (3 organizations)

    Basic Research Areas

  • New initiatives in leather processing
  • Tanning reaction mechanisms
  • Bioinorganic chemistry
  • Comfort footwear and biomechanics
  • Kinetics and Reaction engineering
  • Modelling and simulation
  • Synthesis of chemical auxiliaries syntans and biocides
  • Polymer science and engineering
  • Collagen biochemistry and biotechnology
  • Environmental sciences and engineering
  • Nuclear Magnetic Resonance and solid imaging

    TECHNO ECONOMIC FEASIBILITY STUDIES

  • Leather Processing
  • Leather products manufacture
  • Effluent treatment
  • Hazard and risk evaluation
  • Data base creation
  • Leather chemicals manufacture Center for Leather Apparels - Accessories Development (CLAD) was established with
        financial and technical support from NLDP and CSIR, CLAD offers following services:
  • Fashion forecasting and styling
  • Leather garment and accessories design and development
  • Modular training programmes in leather goods and garments design and production
  • Short-term training programmes for executive & entrepreneurs
  • Technical and accreditation services for setting up new training-cum-production centers

    Technologies Ready for Transfer

    Some of the following technologies developed are yet to be implemented in the industry for achieving excellence in the leather manufacturing.

  • Newer techniques for processing and finishing of bufalo splits and lower ends of leather into utility/speciality leathers
  • Gait analysis and CAD based footwear designs
  • Insole board for footwear
  • High exhaust tanning salts
  • Syntans and fatliquors
  • Knowhow on Claribleach for bleaching of human hair
  • Meat, poultry feather and carcass meal

    Major Future Programmes

    Greater attention would be paid to quality improvement of raw hides and skins; process optimization and control in various tannery operations; zero or low waste technologies; aqueous finishing and topcoat agents; design and fabrication technologies for leather products; value-added products from slaughter house and tannery wastes and objective assessment of leather

    CLRI offers comprehensive services in setting up and promoting leather processing units. Expertise and experience exist in development of technology packages for specific clients for establishing tanneries, leather chemicalunits, effluent treatment plants and leather products manufacturing units. CLRI also undertakes safety and risk analysis studies for various industries.

    Training Courses

    CLRI, in association with Anna University, Madras, offers B.Tech and M.Tech (Leather), M.Tech. (Footwear Science and Engineering) and Ph.D. in leather technology and in basic sciences.

    CLRI has also been serving as an international training centre for leather and leather products sectors for candidates sponsored by FAO, UNIDO, UNDP, CSC, ITC etc. To meet the acute shortage of qualified prsonnel in various sectors of the leather industry, CLRI offers several specialized training programmes on regular basis in the following areas: leather processing, chemicals, footwear, leather goods, and byproducts.

    Publications

    The laboratory publishes LESA [Leather Science Abstracts] (monthly) and its annual reports.

    Leather Technology Mission (LTM)

    A technology mission on leather has been launched by the Government of India. This is the first of the technology missions being implemented directly by a Science department and the CSIR. The Institute has been entrusted with the responsibility to co-ordinate a technology driven development through the Leather Technology Mission.

    The Mission was inaugurated by Shri Bhuvanesh Chaturvedi, Union Minister of State for Science and Technology and Vice- President, CSIR on January 12, 1995 at the NPL Auditorium, New Delhi.

    The total outlay of the Leather Technology Mission is Rs.22.00 crores; out of which Rs.10 crores have been soured from the agencies. The total duration of the programme is four years.

    The objectives of the mission are:

  • To augment the availability of quality hides and skins
  • To evolve a technology grid for a balanced development of the Indian leather sector.
  • To provide extension services to rural and small-scale industries in the adoption of cleaner technology and
        upgradation techniques
  • To initiate a campaign for quality and standardization in the Indian leather sector
  • To enable harmonious blending of traditional and new skills through innovative training and HRD programmes
  • To evolve and implement technology delivery systems most suited for the Indian leather industry
  • To study and identify the most suitable organization structure(s) to integrate the development of rural, semi- urban
        and urban sectors in leather
  • To catalyze the revival and the growth rate of 25% p.a and the Indian share of 10% in the global leather trade